Naples and the Amalfi Coast is amazing. Beautiful, relaxing and took me by surprise. I expected to be greeted by grime and watching over my shoulder in Naples. I didn't expect to be eating the most simple local ragu that as my sister would say, the best spaghetti con ragu she has ever had. Cooked for 7hours. (Tandem Ragu). I had the vegetarian version and it was delicious! She spent the rest of the trip dreaming about this dish and we contemplated returning to Naples for it. Oh and those donuts (doughnuts?), the lightest and fluffiest and covered in Nutella. It was also just so cheap!
The area around Via dei Tribulani in the old historic centre, and surrounding streets offered much in terms of local eateries even though it would serve as the focal point for many a visitor. Observations of locals carrying about their daily routine amidst the few travellers seeking out pizza and donuts. In the end, we only sampled one pizza. It was just so filling! Not the oldest one (Brandi pizzeria), but just one that was nearby and had been recommended (also featured in Eat Pray Love) - La Antica Pizzeria Da Michele. A double mozzarella pizza was €5, tomato base was so fresh and light and the mozzarella chewy and creamy. Have to say I would prefer the base slightly crispier.
Naples reminded me of an edgier version of Lisbon. Less grungy and less funky, but still with good coffee, good food, graffiti and laundry (lol). It made me want to wander the streets. I didn't too much though. I didn't want to get into any trouble! Ha!
It also had resemblances to South East Asia. The smog, dirt, motorbikes and fruit and vegetable stores. Oh and also the freshly baked bread rolls which had an uncanny look, smell and taste to Vietnamese banh mi! (albeit chewier). Take note.
We were warned of the train, so we caught the hydrofoil to Sorrento and then the Sita bus to Positano. Home for the next four nights. Arriving in Sorrento, immediately we felt "ooh we like this place already .." Also a thinking of should we have stayed here? It had a holiday resort feel, a vibe and was big and busy enough with a pretty square. Also the point of arrival in the Marina Piccola afforded us our first view of crystal clear waters that we would later swim in.
We expected beaches to be less than awe inspiring along this coast, as that is what we heard. Whilst this could be attributed to the black sand and pebbles (boulders!) at most beaches, it definitely did not detract from the swimming holes on offer. A ferry ride over to lush Capri, we were greeted with the freshest lemonade and a beautiful view over the Arco Naturale, a slice of paradise. A short bus ride to the Marina Piccola lead to a couple of beach bars and beautiful crystal clear waters. A little cove of heaven, with a view of the three Faraglioni Rocks. Jelly shoes recommended. Only wish we weren't reliant on ferry times for departing! Next time, perhaps a night here, or two...
An early start and a packed lunch the next day meant a full 5 hours at the Spiaggia di Duoglio in Amalfi. It was a short boat ride from Amalfi itself but not as crowded and bluer waters. Well, the colour really does depend on the sunlight and how it shines. The early start meant we had time to visit Ravello. The tiny town on the hill that was the most romantic town we visited. It felt slower, calm and simply nostalgic. It offered mountainous views which differed from the rest of the coast, seeing the settings of beautiful wedding ceremonies and an aperitivo on the grounds of the beautiful Palazzo Avino Hotel was truly stunning.
Sorrento. Yes. Wish we had stayed in Sorrento. It was bigger yes, but it exuded more substance. Positano is very pretty and romantic, but if seeking a beach break with more choices and the giant swimming pool, that is the ocean, Sorrento it would be. The Marina Grande was a 15 minute walk from the town centre and has a small beach and a few restaurants serving apparently the fishermans catch of the day. The lobster tagliolini was also the best pasta dish I had of the coast, and we had alot - so simple in a light lemon sauce.
The Marina Piccola though, is where you should swim. There are three beach bars along the marina and we chose Leonellis at the end. Further from the incoming boats. Doesn't sound too appealing I know, but each beach bar was made up of a boardwalk of sun loungers (which you hire), around an area enclosed by rocks and you enter the water by ladders. Hence the swimming pool. There is a beach on one side, but really, who wants the discomfort of pebbles unnecessarily. Protected from the waves and the extra salty water meant buoyancy and swimming for long periods of time, without my feet ever needing to touch the ground. Could I stay like this forever.
Oh and gelato, the gelato at Raki Gelateria in town. The strawberry and hazelnut flavours were so tasty and the process of scooping was abit of an art form.
Ah we maximised our day in Sorrento, deciding at dinner that the last bus back at 9pm it would be. We had checked the bus timetable and there were a couple of people at the bus station. A Spanish guy approaches and is desperately trying to find out if we had a bus ticket to spare (turns out, we were to have two), or where he could buy a ticket or what time the bus was due to come. He had to get to Amalfi. Also if we spoke Spanish, or Italian. Tick: none of the above (unfortunately). He did understand I meant now... But the now of 9 o'clock was now 9.15 and these buses were prompt. So we checked. Hmm looks like they changed the timetable and the last bus was 8pm. So we asked another bus driver, he didn't know but a very kind random lady did call and confirm that no, there are no more buses tonight.
So we proceed to tell the rest of the people at the bus stop. A group of four Armenians from Detroit and a mother and daughter from Philadelphia. Met with much disagreement "no, the hotel told us".. "no, the bus timetable says..". Nooo, we tell ya. It is all wrong.
So one of the Armenian ladies could speak some Spanish, and the Spanish guy could speak some Italian, so we are in business. First though, we figure we split a taxi with the mother and daughter (Tracey (mum) and Winnie (daughter)) as they are also going to Positano. The other 5 are heading to Amalfi. So we are told by Tracey it should be less than €70, but that we should try and ask for €60 for the four of us, no actually €50. Yes ma'am. We try. We are told €70, we say €60. They agree. Great, we will grab our new friends. Ah.. No with 4 people, it will be more.
Meanwhile, our Spanish friend who speaks Italian is trying to negotiate a taxi for all 9 of us. €20/person. Ok, we say. No, Tracey says, as it is more. In the end we agree, and the 9 of us pile into the 9 seater minivan with the driver. It's ok she says, the 4 of us can share one row. Who needs seat-belts on a winding coastline anyway.
It made for actually a much more relaxing journey than the bus, and shared some laughs and communication woes. Exchanged recommendations of restaurants and said our goodbyes.
Alas, Positano is tiny and the next afternoon we are called out by the Armenian group who were visiting for the day. 5 minutes down the road we are stopped by Tracey and Winnie and after a brief exchange and a request to exchange emails, an offer to stay at their holiday house in September when it would be empty, followed. Situated one block from the beach, near Philadelphia I believe. One hour from New York she stressed. Of course, we would just have to get ourselves there.
How simple encounters can change a day, a trip, a moment. The taxi journey ended the day in Sorrento with all of us laughing. Apparently everything happens for a reason. In a different context this was mentioned in the taxi.
So we still have our two bus tickets. We really should give them to someone. We approached a couple by the bustop at Naples airport and asked if they were travelling to the Amalfi Coast. The guy quickly and ever so slightly abruptly says they are going to Sorrento. He probably thought we wanted to sell him something. We told him that we had two tickets we weren't going to use and so they could have them. He was evidently pleasantly surprised and thanked us. They weren't worth anything and they probably weren't even going to use it, but it brought upon a smile and so forth. Should exercise paying it forward more.
Perhaps it was this coastline, or perhaps it is Italy. Whatever the case though, the Baci kiss quotes were definitely more corny. Still, I could not resist.
