Homesick and Restless

Gifted up

I was at home sick. I was restless. I should rest but resting is just so tiring. What should I do? Should I sleep, should I go for a wander, should I cook? My friends think I have ADD (Attention Deficit Disorder). I don't. I just sometimes find it hard to stay in one spot, focus on one thing, keep my mind or feet still - but that is just because I am good at multi tasking. I decided to cook.

It is almost Christmas and what better excuse to experiment with homemade food gifts than when you have guinea pigs, who are so far still my friends, to bestow them upon. I had seen a Smoked Chilli Sambal recipe I had been wanting to try by Anna Hansen of the Modern Pantry in London. I love chilli, sambals, satays and any sauces of the like. Give me 5 different types of sauces in any meal and I will likely sample, mix or meddle with just a tiny quantity of each. 

I followed the quantity of ingredients in the recipe, except for the addition of 8 fresh chillies and extra chilli flakes initially - it just did not seem right that a sambal did not have any fresh chillies in the recipe. Then again, it was not coming from a native Malaysian source. I tasted it and found it way too tangy, lacking the smokey dried shrimp flavour and I thought it tasted more like a chilli-ginger sauce that usually accompanies Hainanese Chicken Rice. I also think I didn't deep fry the ingredients for quite long enough. It was at this point my mini food processor decided to die on me! I resorted to the hand blender and added some fried dried anchovies, sugar, salt and more chilli flakes. 

After trying to puree this for awhile and the blender getting stuck, I gave up and bottled and processed the jars*. It tasted ok I thought but have decided it is a tangy chilli sambal, rather than a smokey chilli sambal so I am calling it that. It would go well with Hainanese Chicken Rice or perhaps Nasi Lemak, or really just with any meat or Oriental dish as a condiment or even to cook with. Although the non-rest renders me even more sick - at least I have had time to shop for a new food processor.

The array of ingredients

Deep frying all the elements

The ingredients to be mixed and blitzed

All jarred up

Tangy Chilli Sambal (adapted from Anna Hansen's Smoked Chilli Sambal)

Ingredients (makes about 700g)

1. rapeseed oil for deep–frying 
2. 250g red peppers, sliced 
3. 250g onions, sliced 
4. 250g ripe cherry tomatoes 
5. 80g fresh ginger, cut into fine strips 
6. 80g garlic, sliced 
7. 25g dried shrimps, ground finely in a spice grinder 
8. 1 tsp hot smoked paprika
9. ½ tsp dried chilli flakes (add more to your tasting)
10. 125g tamarind paste 
11. 40ml fish sauce (nam pla)
12. 8 fresh chillies (more could be added depending on taste)
13. handful dried anchovies, grounded
14. pinch salt, and sugar

Method

1. Heat some oil to 180C in a deep–fat fryer or a large, deep pan, then deep–fry the red peppers, onions and tomatoes separately in small batches until they are a deep golden brown – almost burnt–looking. Drain them on kitchen paper and then tip them into a large bowl as you go. 
2. Deep–fry the ginger, chillies and garlic, in separate batches also, until golden brown. 
3. In a small frying–pan, fry the shrimps and anchovies in a some  of the oil from the fryer until aromatic. Add them to the bowl along with all the remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly.
4. Now blitz the sambal in batches in a food processor until almost smooth, emptying it out into another bowl as you go. Mix the batches back together and allow to cool. Place in an airtight container and refrigerate until needed.

*The jars need to be sterilised. I did this by washing them then boiling the jars in a big saucepan for about 10 minutes. Add enough water so it covers the jars by around 1 inch. Keep the jars hot until ready for use. When the jars have been filled, put them back into the hot water and make sure there is at least an inch of water covering them and bring to a boil for around 10 minutes. When done, you might hear a ping as the lid becomes concave, indicating that they have been sealed properly. Let the jars sit for at least 5 minutes before taking them out to cool. Keeps for a month in the fridge.

The French Italian Heartbreaker

The first date - Strawberry shells with a chocolate ganache and coconut shells with an almond and coconut filling

Those pretty little treats, the colourful array of shells, the curious fillings, the variations... Macarons - not to be confused with coconut macaroons – are the French, bite-size confectionary that has captured many a heart, tantalised many a tongue, tortured many a soul and has evoked a love-hate relationship for me. 

I love macarons. Well, I used to? I was initially drawn to its' bright, crisp, complex and somewhat elusive exterior with the soft heart that never ceased to surprise me. Our first few dates were successful - no cracks appeared on the surface and our feet were light and airy. I was left feeling inspired and smiled knowing that I was party to all this sweetness that surrounds. 

But, this was the honeymoon period. And we all know that it never lasts. Before long, the sweet memories faded, the temperature changed and the feeling in the air was different. The cracks were beginning to show. Feet were no longer on air and, as quickly as I fell in love, I then started to question the very reason of their appearance in my life. I was at a macaron crossroads: do I try again or pack up my piping bags and say au revoir? 

I decided to try again, take things slow, day-by-day and somehow things came back together. The foundations formed and the connection was reborn. Shell and filling were as one. I, however, am still unsure of how I feel about this union. Every success creates a desire to experiment with new flavours but with every re-attempt, the thought of another flawed batch and countless hours invested was causing much grief and heartache. For now though, I have not yet given up!

Strawberry shells

I first made macarons when I was in France. I was so fascinated by them and wanted to sample all the flavours that were presented to me in the patisseries (and sample I did!). I went around Paris with list-in-hand of patisseries which were reknown for their delicious macarons. There was such a difference in the shells everywhere I went - some were bland and just tasted sugary, whereas others had distinct flavours and fillings - not just colourings to make them aesthetically appealing. To me, a good macaron has a thin crunch to the shell but with a soft, chewy inside from the meringue. They also have "feet". I was so excited on my first solo attempt at making these and seeing the "feet" appear through the oven door.

There are two methods of making these - the French meringue and the Italian. I was told in class that the Italian meringue was more difficult but the more stable recipe and produced a glossier shell. We weren't told it was only stable though once you were able to master it! It involved a sugar thermometer and a cooking sugar syrup to precisely 121'C and pouring this in a steady stream into the whipped egg whites. The French meringue method did not involve any cooking of a sugar syrup. My first few attempts when I returned from France turned out perfectly (in my mind). Perhaps it was that the instructions were still fresh in my mind and the steps were crystal clear. Perhaps it was also that I had a better oven with a more accurate temperature. I later moved to a new flat and that’s when they started to fail - the feet weren't forming, the shells were too thin and would crack, which meant I could not fill them without the filling soaking through and rendering a soggy biscuit. There were lots of variables - I believe the oven was just one of them. I also believe I had just forgotten some of the finer details involved in making macarons. 

So, I invested in an oven thermometer and I googled. I read up on macarons and did things by the book. I aged the egg whites* (which I had never done before) and I timed...and then voila, it worked! Though my most recent attempt was not my best batch, they were still a sweet treat for a baby shower I was attending. That was enough for me.

French Macarons, the Italian Way (Macarons au sucre cuit)

Ingredients (makes about 30 filled macarons)

1. 250g almond powder

2. 250g icing sugar

3. 90g egg whites

4. 115g egg whites (in a mixing bowl to be whisked)

5. 250g sugar

6. 85g water

Method (from scribbled notes from class!)

1. Sift almond powder and icing sugar together in food processor

2. Measure 250g sugar into saucepan and measure water on top of this

3. Start melting sugar on low heat (turn up the heat when it starts to boil, use a wet pastry brush to brush down the sides of the saucepan as the sugar boils)

4. Mix the 90g egg whites with the sifted almond powder and icing sugar with a spatula

5. Start whisking the 115g of egg whites (a Kitchenaid would come in handy here!) until stiff peaks begin to form

6. Cook the sugar until it reaches 121'C

7. Pour the cooked sugar into the whisked egg whites carefully (this equates to the Italian meringue) and continue mixing until the mixture is cooled and glossy (approximately 10 minutes)

8. Mix half the Italian meringue into the almond mixture (which has just been mixed with a spatula)

9. When mixed, add the remainder and mix with a spatula until semi runny

10. Pipe the mixture into rounds and drop the tray a couple of times to release any air bubbles
11. Let the piped shells sit for at least 30 minutes to dry out and form a crust before baking

Bake for 10 minutes at 130'C then check if they are cooked. Add extra 5 minutes at a time, with a maximum of 20 minutes.

You can fill them with any ganache, buttercream, jam of your choice.

*Ageing the egg whites - This involves separating the egg whites from the yolks and covering the whites and letting them sit at room temperature for 48-72 hours. I opted to keep them covered in the fridge for 72 hours then bring them back to room temperature well before I needed to use them. I am not sure if this step is entirely necessary for store bought eggs, but my last attempt did work out, when my other attempts had not of late.

Step 8

The piping bag mixture

Chocolate shells

Chocolate shells with fresh raspberry and cream filling

Vanilla bean shell with raspberry and white chocolate ganache

Packaging them up for baby shower favours

Add caption

Under the Bridge

In a quiet corner of the London Bridge area lies Bermondsey Street. A street unbeknown to me until just a few months ago. For me, London Bridge meant Borough Market and as that was largely an event for a Saturday morning, there was no inkling that this street represented a buzzy area of a weeknight filled with bars, restaurants and an arty vibe. My first visit was a cold and grey Tuesday evening to the newly opened José, by José Pizarro - a former chef of the popular Brindisa in Borough Markets. In this small space, plates were flying around the crowded room, wait staff attended us efficiently and red wine flowed as we perched ourselves along the front window pane, watching the world outside and enjoying the dishes as they arrived. Croquettes were creamy and flavoursome and not stodgy, Iberian ham was cut thinly with a nice texture, chicken livers in garlic and fino were more-ish enough for a second plate, seabream was fresh and perfectly cooked and a blackboard special of rare Pluma Iberica was charred nicely and resembled a nice steak, though was surpassed by a similar dish we had at the Corner Room the month before. Lamb meatballs were not as exciting but a simple salad with walnuts and apple was a nice balance to the meatier dishes we ordered. Thoroughly enjoyed my meal here, it was simple, yet fulfilling with a nice vibe and great service; be prepared to queue.

José
104 Bermondsey Street London, SE1 3UB 
UNITED KINGDOM
http://joserestaurant.co.uk/
No Reservations
GBP23pp

Jamon Iberico Manuel Maldonado

Padron peppers

Croquetas

Tomato Bread

Rocket, Mahon cheese, apple and walnuts

Chicken livers, garlic and fino

Lamb meatballs,spicy tomato sauce

Pluma Iberica, served rare

Seabream, black olives and orange

Returning to this area, I found myself walking down and spotting a coffee shop I wanted to visit, a return to José or the newly opened restaurant of José Pizarro - Pizarro; or simply sampling a couple more of the drinking dens that lined this quaint street that appeared to be hidden away and offering a contrasting environment from the busy thoroughfare that is Tooley Street. 

Zucca, a relatively new modern Italian restaurant, was a single small room with an open kitchen, allowing you to watch the chefs in action. Complementary potato frittata and homemade bread basket, with a fruity and nicely bitter olive oil (sold for GBP10 a bottle which we later bought) was brought out and enjoyed before our meal commenced. A seabass carpaccio with lemon, peppers and chilli was light and refreshing, if not, cut slightly too thick. There are only two pasta dishes on the menu so we ordered both. A homemade Tagliatelli with a tasty ragu of venison and parmesan and an Orrechiette with slow cooked broccoli and salted ricotta, were the highlight of the evening. Cooked al dente, and with the simple meaty ragu and ricotta sauce - makes for an easy lunch meal for locals. Mains of the infamous Veal chop with spinach and lemon was cooked medium, and juicy with a nice charring; however, the Yin/Yang dish of Squid "Nero" with white polenta, was rather one dimensional and lacked any true standout of flavours. The prices are not high but if in search for a place to eat in the area, I do think there are better options. None the less, José, coupled with the drinking dens such as Village East, Garrisons and The Hide Bar do make this little corner worth seeking out.

Zucca

184 Bermondsey Street

London, SE1 3TQ 

UNITED KINGDOM
http://www.zuccalondon.com/

GBP40pp (including 2 glasses of wine)

A Foie Gras Odyssey

One month after our one night of tastes sensations at Tickets Bar and El Cellar De Can Roca (posts to follow), I return to Barcelona for the next chapter. This time on my eating agenda, I plam to visit a few simple tapas bar - for my stomach, wallet and heart was still recovering from the previous trip of overindulgence. Two nights and two full days of gorging on Jamon, Foie Gras and Pimientos del Padron, I was to be in heaven - or was I?

First meal was at La Pepita, a new small tapas bar in the Gracia district, with a small menu of hot and cold tapas, "tapalatas" and "pepitas" - a type of sandwich with various fillings and sauces on thinly sliced bread. We had a mix of cold plates, marinated mussels, a generous serving of foie gras mi-cuit complemented by fig vinaigrette and thinly sliced fennel. This dish was rich and slightly gamey; whilst a pumpkin and red pepper gazpacho with sliced Iberico ham was surprisingly refreshing. Croquetas wtih Iberico ham - one normal serving and one V.I.P portion(i.e with extra shaved jamon on top) was disappointing, doughy and rather heavy. A blue cheese, mushroom and pork loin pepita followed and whilst it was nice to have something warm, I have to admit that looking around the small room, plates of eggs with shaved ham, potatoes or grilled foie - if you so desired; along with other larger plates, we didn't order the best here. La Pepita was a small intimate place, with menu written on the mirror behind the bar, friendly staff and a buzzy feel and really my disappointment lay mostly in our choice of dishes.

Saturday morning started with the famous La Boqueria market on Las Ramblas and ended with a rather heavy heart and cholesterol laden body. Foie Gras overload. Grilled prawns, razorclams and padron peppers at Boqueria was followed by a trip to a small wine and tapas bar called Quimet y Quimet; a tiny space with just a few standing places at the bar and a couple of makeshift wine barrel tables and floor to ceiling of wine bottles. I like this place already. We arrived just after 12, which was ideal as not before long, the place filled up; whilst we maintained prime position in the front counter, watching the one man show carefully construct various little pinxtos like snacks. We sampled a few of these - smoked salmon, yoghurt and truffled honey, tuna tomato and fig, mushrooms and pate with truffled balsalmic vinegar as well as foie gras on a cracker with volcanic sea salt - I love small plates and sampling a multitude of dishes. My kind of place. Thinking we had not yet had enough of Quimet y Quimet, we go on to order a mini plate of meat, which included yet more foie, pate and various cold cuts; a small plate of cheese and yet more bread to accompany these. All washed down with some Muscadel wine made for an extremely enjoyable way to spend an hour.

Some obligatory shopping and walking followed to allow for digestion and further consumption. We walked up and then down the Passage de Gracia. On the way back down, late afternoon, we pass by Tapas24, a former El Bulli chef and think a snack is in order. A Bikini Commerc 24 - a posh toastie, filled with jamon iberico, bufalo mozzarella and black truffles along with their McFoie burger - a mini burger with a beef pattie that was mixed with foie gras and was accompanied by an indulgent foie gras ganache, was in order. At EUR9.50 each, this was rather expensive, although I was happy to pay for it until I see a chef bring out a bag of what appeared to be frozen pre-made toasties. The appeal was lost as fast as this little snack was consumed.

The weekend so happened to be holding the Menja de Mercat, an annual food and wine festival with various traders and plenty more to eat. More generous servings of foie gras, oysters, chorizo, chicken dumplings with foie, smoked salmon and cakes, to name but a few. We definitely could not have dinner, or could we. Settling back to the hotel, with the chef being a reknown pastry chef, we have intentions of dessert and tea. We end up however, with grilled foie and mushroom consomme, a well cooked venison fillet followed by chocolate souffle and creme catalan. It was this last piece of foie that did it... I did not want anymore foie gras...least not until tomorrow.

Tomorrow came...more we had. Back to the market and another mini burger, this time with wagyu beef and foie at a fraction of the price. However, this truly was all we could manage.

The final place I had wanted to return to was La Fonda, a place reknown as much for its queues as it was for its paella, generous servings and low prices. We queued, we ordered the black rice paella and we ate. The rice was tasty and moreish, and it was nice to have a sit down proper meal.

I did not think I could tire of foie gras - I did, but, I got over it fairly quickly.

La Pepita 

C/ Còrsega, 343  

08037 Barcelona, Spain

932 38 48 93

La Boqueria

C/ La Rambla, 91  

08002 Barcelona, Spain
933 18 25 84

Quimet y Quimet

Carrer del Poeta Cabanyes, 25  

08004 Barcelona, Spain 
934 42 31 42

Tapas 24
C/ Diputació, 269  
08007 Barcelona, Spain 
934 880 977

La Fonda

Passatge Escudellers, 1  

08002 Barcelona, Spain
933 01 75 15

La Pepita - Croquetas - one standard and one V.I.P

La Pepita - Foie Gras with shaved fennel and fig

La Pepita - Pork Loin and blue cheese "peptia"

Mirrored menu behind the bar at La Pepita

La Boqueria - grilled prawns

La Boqueria - Pimientos de Padron

La Boqueria - Grilled Razorclams

Quimet y Quimet - foie gras with volcanic salt

Quimet y Quimet - Snoked salmon with yoghurt and truffled honey

Quimet y Quimet - Tuna with tomato and fig compote

Quimet y Quimet - Chunky pate with mushrooms and truffled balsamic

Quimet y Quimet - Mini "meat" platte

Quimet y Quimet - Mini cheese platter with bread

Quimet y Quimet

Quimet y Quimet menu

"snack"

Tapas 24 Menu

Tapas 24 - Commerc Bikini 24

Tapas 24 - McFoie Burger with Foie Gras ganache

Which you add to the pattie

Various market snacks

Seafood market snacks

Fonda Espana - Grilled foie with mushroom consomme

El Quim (from La Boqueria) stand at the market

Wagyu Beef patty with foie

La Fonda - Squid ink black rice